Day 8, on the road again !!!!

I was feeling great after a very relaxing time in Durness, but sad to leave as it was a great wee place and the hostel was so comfortable.  I saw on the village notice board a poster about the Cape Wrath challenge which involves a marathon from Cape Wrath to Durness which i'm interested in doing next year.

Today's ride was a short one only about 30 miles, so no need to start super early.  The first section was cycling round the shore of Loch Eriboll before cutting inland toward the Kyle of Tongue.  The road was very quiet and not much traffic up that way.  I came to the Croft Cafe where I had beans and toast served by a wee old man which was a nice stop before continuing around the Loch.

Looking back to Durness

North coast views.

The far end of Loch Eriboll.

Loch Eriboll lime kilns,

The road cut inland with a big climb, then a good descent down into the Kyle of Tongue and across the causeway road to my hostel for the evening the Tongue hostel and holiday park.  Its a big very grand hostel over looking the Kyle of Tongue and has great views.  The staff here were very friendly and helpful.  I arrived early at 1pm, so once I settled in and had some lunch I went out exploring a bit further on my bike.  I headed to the village of Talmine where I bought some lunch from the village shop and had a wee chat with the lady who works there.  She told me she used to live in St Boswells in the borders !!!!.  Very remote and quiet of here with some amazing deserted beaches.

Talmine beach

Talmine beach

skeletal ship hull

Kyle of Tongue

Ben Loyal

It was a very relaxing day in Tongue.  The hostel was nice and quiet so I got the whole dorm to myself.  Tomorrow evening I would be in the bright lights of Thurso !!!!!

Day 8 Route:
Exploring Kyle of Tongue Route:

Day 7 No cycling, just relaxing (and caving !!!)

Rest day finally :-) had a nice long lie bliss.  I then got up made some bacon rolls then watched last evenings Olympic action (Mo Fara winning his last gold of Rio) and then it was time I washed all my dirty cycling gear and hung them out to dry.

Once all the chores were done its was time to go out and explore Durness.  It was a bit foggy to start with but I started with a energising walk out to Faraid Head.  It has some lovely beaches, sand dunes and an RAF radar station !!!.

Coo's on the beach.

Ruined church.

Very lazy coo's !!!

Stunning beaches.

After the walk it was time a for coffee at the famous Cocoa Mountain, in the Balnakeil craft village.  I recommend the chocolate tasting platter !!!.

Cocoa Mountain.

Post lunch that it was time to visit the Smoo cave.  The highlight of any trip to Durness.  I did the cave tour which involves a boat trip deep into the cave system and then a guided walk through some of the chambers, by some of the cavers.

Entrance to the Smoo cave.

Inside the cave.

Entrance to the inner chambers.

Cave boat trip.

Cave boat trip.

stalactites (please correct me if i'm wrong here !!!)

Dean the Caver !!!

Looking down into the cave from along the coast.

After the cave I headed up-to the Smoo Cave hotel for a bar supper and a few pints before heading back to the hostel to get ready for tomorrows cycle along the top of Scotland to the Kyle of Tongue.

Another Movie: The road to Achiltiebuie

The one is cycling in Coigach:

I don't think I'll ever get a job making travel documentaries !!!!!

Movie: The road to Durness !!!

Here is a (very poorly made !!!) movie I made from my bike.  Sort of give you a taste of the road !!!!!!

Loosing my marbles after 7 hours of cycling approaching Durness.

Day 6 : Its a long way to the top......

Today was doing to be a long day.  The last day cycling up the west coast  including the extra miles from staying in Achiltiebuie.  I was up early again for porridge and it took me 2 trips to take my bags and then my bike up the track to the main road.  Plus  the midges was ferocious at this time in the morning.  I hastily took a couple of quick snaps of the beautiful morning before starting along the road.

Photo looking back down the track to the hostel and the Summer Isles.  The midges were eating me alive !!!!

Beautiful morning view from the hostel.

So instead of following the road all the way out of Coigach to the main road and the NC500 route, the hostel told me of a cracking wee road up-to Lochinver.  Quiet but a bit twisy turny.  I decided to go for it.  It was a beautiful little road up the back of Stac Polly and on up the coast to Lochinver.

The road to Lochinver

I got to Lochinver around 10 am, time my for morning coffee.  What do you do in Lochinver ?, you go to the Lochinver Larder !!!.  The Lochinver Larder is famous for its pies (which you can also send by post).   I had one for breakfast, so good I bought another two for later !!!!.  They have a vary array of fillings, something for everyone !!!!

My breakfast pie !!!!

Yum yum !!!!.

You guessed it after my super pie breakfast there was a huge hill up and out of Lochinver.  The next section we turned off the main road to do a loop along the coast past Achmelvich, Stoer, Clashnessie and Drumbeg.  There are a lot of amazing beaches and campsites along here.  I would have liked to cycle out to the Stoer lighthouse back it was an extra 12 miles, which was going to add to what already looked like a tough day.

Boardy with Suilven in the distance.

Old church.

The winding road ahead.

If you want beaches, Scotland's got them !!!!!

The second section of this road started to get very lumpy.  I stopped at the Drumbeg store for lunch then had a very difficult ride back to the main road.  I think once the steepest roads of the NC500 is on this section.  Its not long, more of a ramp but it must be about 25%.  I managed to cycled up it, but I had to put all my weight over the front of the bike to prevent me pulling a 360% !!!!

Drumbeg.

I was finding this road mentally quite tough and never ending.  I was glad when I could see the Kylesku bridge in the distance which meant rejoining the main road again.

I had a coffee and chocolate cake at the Rock Stop and visitor centre.  This is the main visitor centre of the Highland Geo park and well worth I visit.  I spend a little time in the visitor centre and little walk around.  Its surrounded by the most amazing mountains.  I even managed to pick up a few donations from other visitors who asked about my trip and the charity I was doing it for.

So now it was stage of the day: the long pull right up-to the north of Scotland, Durness.  Firstly crossing the Kylesku bridge, then a series of long climbs.  Not steep but just long and it was a very hot afternoon.  It was a long never ending cycle.  I bumped into a few other cyclist's struggling up here and it was great giving each other support  "just keep going mate, keep going".  I stopped at the shop in Scourie for some nourishment (fizzy juice and chocolate bars).  There was a final long brutal climb up past Kinlochbervie before I could see the north coast.  A nice long last downhill for a while then a long cycle past the Cape Wrath road to Durness.  I was so happy to get there, I was completely done in.  80 miles cycle, 6455 ft of climbing (cycled up Ben Nevis, twice) and 7 hours of bum numbing cycling.

However the hostel I staying in was fantastic.  It is called Mackays and is very modern, clean and boutique.  There is also boutique hotel rooms, but the hostel was just a good as a hostel !!!

When I staggered into reception they had a parcel for me from Gillian.  She had sent me a postcard of Peebles and a pack of chocolate coated rice cakes !!!!.  I ate the rice cakes straight away standing in the reception I was so hungry !.  I settled into the Hostel and made my tea (another Lochinver pie) before heading down to the pub (Sango sands oasis) for a couple of well deserved beers !!!

Sundown at Durness.

Tomorrow was a rest day off the bike and boy I was looking forward to it !!!!!

Day 6 Route:

Day 5, A short spin up to Achiltiebuie.

After three long rides it was just a short 26 miler from Ullapool up to the Achiltiebuie.  Well its wasn't really as it was taking my off the NC500 route for a day and would cost me the next day, but its somewhere I have always wanted to go so I thought it was worth the detour.

I had a late morning in Ullapool, I paid for a continental breakfast in the hostel which was brilliant and I loaded myself up with food.  Then I had a short walk around town before a trip to the Ullapool museum  which was very interesting.  Lots of information about life past and present in the area and also info the Achiltiebuie area.

The short run up started with a nice big hill out off Ullapool (of course !!).  Then the route followed the main A835 for about 10 miles or so.  It wasn't busy and a nice ride.  Just as you turn off to head toward Achiltiebuie and Coigach you are entering Northwest highlands Geo Park and the mountains and scenery up here are spectacular.

You cycle along a very quite single track road up the peninsula past 3 lochs (Lurgainn, Bad a'Ghaill and Osgaig) and the famous Stac Polly.

2 ancient rock formations (Me and Stac Polly !!!).

Stac Polly and the road to Coigach.

Cycling past Stac Polly.

One of the most beautiful rides of the tour along the Coigach to the village of Achiltiebuie.  I had lunch at the piping school cafe before trying to find my accommodation for the night.  I was staying at the Achininver hostel which is amazing.  It's a converted croft and has recently been taken over my new owners and it spotless, comfortable and cosy.  Its a bit of am adventure getting there as it down a rough track to the beach and I had to push Boardy down there.  However it was well worth it.

Acheninver hostel.

Inside the hostel.

Bridge I had to cross to get there.

A fantastic location.

After settling in I went for a walk along the beach to the pub at the Summer Isles hotel.

Walk along the beach

Rusty Winch.

Old boats.

Great views.

Shed.

Pano looking toward the summer isles.

I had dinner back in the hostel and a great night chatting with fellow travellers.  It was a great day and a good rest before a big day tomorrow which was a ride all the way to the Durness right at the north of Scotland.

Here's a good website on Achiltiebuie and Coigach.